In our need to be by water again, we choose Leasburg Dam State Park which is next to the Rio Bravo, or as we say in the USA, the Rio Grande. The Rio Bravo is one of the principle rivers in the southwestern United States and Northern New Mexico. The Rio Grande rises from south-central Colorado and flows to the Gulf of Mexico, some 1896 miles long (+/-). Since the mid 20th century, heavy water consumption from farms and cities, along with many large diversion dams on the river, has left only 20% of its natural discharge to flow into the Gulf.
Based on the Official internet map site of the New Mexico State Parks, it appeared the campground, at Leasburg, was right on the Rio – at the dam. Surprise, it is NOT! The campground is not far but we cannot see the river from our campsite nor can we walk a few feet and dip our “toes in the water, ass in the sand”. The dam to us, is more like a spillway than a DAM, but this is the desert… Ah, we DO still miss Portal!
Nonetheless, the ever present wind sustains us and keeps us inside the RV, or inside Gypsy on sightseeing day trips. I have decided that no matter where you are in the southwest right now, there will be wind. So we just experience ‘what is’. Next year we will buy kites!
So yesterday we took a sightseeing tour along the Geronimo Trail. The information Patti found indicated the trail was a loop and was filled with Ghost Towns that were now being inhabited by people restoring these towns. Starting out on I-25 north and a mishap at the Border Check Point where I, Sameah, misread the ‘cones’ and the Border Agent asked me if I was on drugs (I assured him I was not, after all it was only 6am): we proceeded to the Hillsboro exit (near Elephant Butte) in search of Geronimo. At the furthest part of our journey, I expected to photograph the Gila Cliff Dwellings at the National Monument. Expected is the operant word…
Hillsboro is one of the new and improved ghost towns we would encounter on our journey via NM HWY 152. Last year when we were going to City of Rocks near Silver City, one of our friends warned us NOT to take 152 to Silver City – now we know why. This highway is filled with twists & hair-pin turns. This loop traverses from the desolate desert to the flourishing forests. We were glad we were in just Gypsy, with no Rosalita in tow.
This inviting little town is 16 miles off the interstate and a thriving ghost town (about 225 people live here – a semi ghost town). We stopped in at the Hillsboro Store and Cafe, shared scrumptious blueberry pancakes, and toured the town. The Art Gallery, unfortunately was closed but I was able to get some pics of several art hangings on the outside wall. We discovered a restored old cabin and old fire truck just waiting to be enshrined in this blog. There was a Garden Mother nurturing the plants under her care, as well as, a rock “peace” circle. We loved the oversized wooden gate carved in the shape of a rattlesnake (not really for MY entry – because I do not like snakes of any kind). Hillsboro reminded us of several small towns explored along our journeys: quaint, familiar, and warmly welcoming.
The rich history of Hillsboro includes its founding in the 1870’s after gold and silver were discovered in the surrounding Black Range Mountains. The town developed into an important mining and ranching center, and served as the Sierra County seat from 1884 – 1939. It is said to have been the last operating stage coach line in the U.S.
The remains of the old County Courthouse built in 1892, still stand. It was here that the 3 alleged killers of Col. Albert J. Fountain were tried (and acquitted) for his murder. Hillsboro today is home to several restaurants, gift shops & galleries, museum, garage & grocery store (a contrary combination), B & B, saloon, library, post office, and a bank. It is renowned for hiking, biking, and scenic horseback riding trails.
An interesting road side tribute honors Sadie Orchard (1860 – 1943), too bad we missed knowing her by a few years… Her tribute read: Sadie is arguably the most colorful woman in New Mexico’s ‘herstory’. Sadie opened brothels, worked as a prostitute, built and operated hotels, restaurants, and co-owned and drove for a regional stagecoach line. During WWI, she tended to the less fortunate, and in the 1918 flu pandemic nursed children and cared for the sick and dying. New Mexico writer Erna Ferguson wrote of her: “For a bad woman, Sadie was one of the best.” A real pioneer woman, in our opinion!
Promotional information about the ‘loop’ was misleading and we were disappointed that there was not much to be learned about Geronimo, at least as far as roadside tributes were concerned. Hillsboro was the only ghost town we found. Kingston was the other ghost town on our journey, but I guess we blinked and the ghost disappeared. It was a beautiful drive nonetheless (especially since the Lupines were in full bloom) and being in the vast Gila National Forest was a remarkable reprieve from the desert.
The Gila Cliff Dwellings, by this time, were not really an option for this day’s scenic trip. While we were disappointed that the Cliff Dwellings could not be visited today, we continued on the loop toward Silver City and into the Mimbres Valley. We ate a late picnic lunch by the dwindling Mimbres River under an ancient, shady cottonwood tree. After lunch we ventured back to our campsite 19 miles north of Las Cruces, during a pretty bad dust storm: while the temperature climbed to 92 degrees.
We have decided, that before we leave for another campground, we will celebrate Mother’s Day in Las Cruces – as Mothers in our own right; and for our Moms, Edna and Margaret, who are undoubtedly looking down on us – hopefully laughing with us on our Gypsy journey.
Happy Mother’s Day to all Mothers on this day!!!
gypsyroadgallery 